Quick answer: The Dawki river, properly the Umngot river, flows past Dawki town in West Jaintia Hills district, Meghalaya, on the India-Bangladesh border, roughly 70 km by road from Shillong. It is famous for water so clear in the dry season (roughly November to April) that boats seem to float on air. Since late 2025, though, road-construction runoff has repeatedly turned the river murky, so check recent local reports on water clarity before you plan a trip around the boat ride.
Dawki and the Umngot river at a glance
| Detail | What to know |
|---|---|
| Location | Dawki, West Jaintia Hills district, Meghalaya, at the India-Bangladesh border |
| Distance from Shillong | Roughly 70 km by road; journey times depend on traffic and roadworks |
| Main attraction | Boat rides on the clear Umngot river; the 1932 Dawki suspension bridge |
| Best time | The dry months, roughly November to April, when the water is clearest |
| Boat charges | Set locally and they change; confirm the price before you board |
| Current issue | River turned muddy at times since late 2025 because of silt from roadworks |
| Time needed | A full day trip from Shillong; more if you stay at Shnongpdeng |
Important update: the river’s clarity in 2025-2026
The Umngot is known for its clean, transparent water and visible riverbed. From around October 2025, however, the river turned brown or murky for long stretches. Reports linked this to the Shillong-Dawki road-widening project, which includes hill-cutting, excavation and the dumping of soil, and to a new bridge at Dawki. The Meghalaya State Pollution Control Board inspected the work and found loose debris and soil entering the river, and in November 2025 local tourism operators in Dawki, Shnongpdeng and Darrang said bookings had fallen sharply.
The river has stayed open, and boat rides have continued even when the water was not clear. A February 2026 feature again described the river as crystal clear, but we found no official statement in 2026 confirming that the problem has ended. Before you travel, check recent news from Shillong, or ask your hotel or driver how the water looks that week. Rain upstream can make it cloudy within hours.
About the Umngot river
The Umngot flows through Dawki, a small town at the foot of the Jaintia Hills, and marks the area where Meghalaya meets Bangladesh. Local fishermen work the river, and Dawki is also a trade route between the two countries. A white, rough stretch of water where the current rises is described as marking the unofficial boundary on the river.
In April 2021, the Meghalaya government proposed a 210 MW hydroelectric project on the river. It was dropped after local opposition, largely over fears for tourism and the river itself.
Things to do at Dawki
Take a boat ride on the Umngot
The classic Dawki experience is a short ride in a small wooden boat. On a clear day you can see the stones on the riverbed beneath you, and the shadow of the boat on the bottom makes it look as though it is hovering. Boatmen usually stop at a rocky island mid-river where you can step out and take photographs.
Boat charges and the number of passengers per boat are set locally and change; an earlier version of this article quoted Rs 500 per boat, which we could not confirm as current. Agree the price and the duration before you get in, and wear a life jacket if one is offered.
See the Dawki suspension bridge
The Dawki Bridge, a suspension bridge over the Umngot, was built by the British in 1932. It carries the road towards the border, and from the river it frames the classic Dawki view.
Look across to Bangladesh
From the riverbank near Dawki you can look across to the plains and the Jaflong area of Bangladesh. Dawki is also home to one of the few road border crossings between India and Bangladesh: the Dawki Integrated Check Post, opposite Tamabil on the Bangladesh side. It is mainly used for trade, especially coal. There is a small market near the border, and Bangladeshi traders sometimes set up stalls.
Earlier versions of this article described visiting the “no man’s land” with permission from the Border Security Force (BSF), and named the border gate as the “Maitri Dwar” built in 2018. We could not verify either detail. The border area is controlled, so follow BSF instructions and do not cross any line or take photographs where it is not allowed.
Stay at Shnongpdeng
Shnongpdeng, a village upstream of Dawki on the same river, is a popular base for a longer stay. Local operators there have offered riverside camping and water activities such as kayaking and snorkelling. Choose an operator that provides life jackets and trained guides, and avoid these activities when the river is high.
How to reach Dawki
- Get to Shillong. Most travellers fly into Guwahati’s Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport or take a train to Guwahati, then travel by road to Shillong. Shillong also has a small airport at Umroi with limited flights.
- Travel from Shillong to Dawki by road. The distance is roughly 70 km. A hired taxi or your own vehicle is the most practical choice, since you can stop at viewpoints and waterfalls on the way. Shared vehicles and buses also run.
- Allow extra time. The Shillong-Dawki road was being widened in 2025-2026, and work can slow traffic. Start early.
An earlier version of this article said the distance was 82 km and quoted a bus fare of Rs 135 per person from the Assam State Transport Corporation. We could not confirm the fare as current, so we have removed it.
Best time to visit Dawki
The dry season, roughly November to April, is when the Umngot is usually at its clearest. During the monsoon months (around June to September) heavy rain makes the river swell and turn muddy, and boating can be unsafe or stopped. Visiting soon after the monsoon, in October, means fuller waterfalls along the road, but the water may not yet be fully clear.
Plan to reach Dawki by late morning so you have good light for the boat ride and enough time to return to Shillong before dark. An earlier version of this article suggested 3 pm to 5 pm as the best time; in Meghalaya the sun sets early, especially in winter, so that window leaves little daylight.
Food at Dawki
Dawki has only a few simple eateries. Many travellers eat at roadside places on the way from Shillong. Try local Khasi and Jaintia dishes such as jadoh (rice cooked with meat) and dohneiiong (pork cooked with black sesame) if you eat meat, and carry snacks and water in case options at the river are limited.
Travel tips
- Check the weather and recent reports on the river before you set out.
- Carry ID; there are security checks near the border.
- Wear quick-drying footwear with good grip for wet rocks.
- Carry a spare set of clothes, a light rain jacket and a basic first-aid kit.
- Do not throw plastic or food waste into the river.
- Keep valuables in a waterproof bag on the boat.
If you enjoy waterfalls and rivers, our guide to Dudhsagar Waterfall in Goa covers another of India’s best-known monsoon landscapes, and our list of the best national parks in India has more nature trips.
Frequently asked questions
Can I go to Bangladesh from Dawki?
Dawki has an official land border crossing (Dawki-Tamabil), but you need a valid passport and a Bangladesh visa, and you must clear immigration and customs. Border rules and opening hours can change, so check with the Bangladesh mission and Indian authorities before you plan to cross. Without a visa, you can only look across from the Indian side.
Why is the Dawki river so clear?
In the dry season the Umngot carries very little sediment, so the water is transparent and the riverbed is visible. Heavy rain, and since 2025 silt from roadworks upstream, can quickly make it cloudy.
Are vehicles allowed on the Dawki suspension bridge?
Yes, the bridge carries road traffic towards the border. An earlier version of this article said only one vehicle can cross at a time; we could not confirm the current rule, so follow any traffic control at the bridge.
Is the Dawki boat ride open during the monsoon?
During heavy rain the river runs high and muddy, and boating may be unsafe or suspended. Check locally before you travel in the monsoon months.
How long does a Dawki trip take from Shillong?
Plan for a full day, starting early. Many travellers combine Dawki with stops on the same road, or stay overnight at Shnongpdeng.
This guide was checked in October 2026 against published information on Dawki and the Umngot river and against 2025-2026 news reports on the river’s water quality and the Shillong-Dawki road project.
